Pulmonarias will cope with some sun but they prefer a shadier spot. They also prefer moist soil so keep them well watered when they are first planted and during any subsequent dry spells. The roots of established plants can be divided and replanted during October or March to increase your stock. This method of propagation produces better results than growing new plants from seed. I divided my plants last year and replanted some in different areas of the garden. I'm hoping these new plants will have rooted well and produce some lovely flowers this year.
Monday, 13 February 2012
Pulmonaria - a favourite spring flower
Pulmonarias will cope with some sun but they prefer a shadier spot. They also prefer moist soil so keep them well watered when they are first planted and during any subsequent dry spells. The roots of established plants can be divided and replanted during October or March to increase your stock. This method of propagation produces better results than growing new plants from seed. I divided my plants last year and replanted some in different areas of the garden. I'm hoping these new plants will have rooted well and produce some lovely flowers this year.
Friday, 13 January 2012
Feed the Birds
The weather forecast suggests an end to the mild weather we have been enjoying and some cold frosty days ahead. This time of year we need to think about our garden birds and ensure that they have sufficient food and fresh water to see them through the winter. Hanging feeders from trees will attract certain birds but others need ground feeding areas or bird tables. Sparrows, finches, blue tits and great tits will happily feed from suspended feeders but robins, thrushes and blackbirds prefer tables. Think carefully about where you are going to hang your feeders and site your bird table, avoiding low level feeding tables if cats visit your garden. If you do not have trees from which to hang your feeders buy a pole fitted with hooks which can be pushed into the ground or mounted in a stand and placed on a hard surface. Place it no further than 6ft from cover such as a hedge or shrubs so the birds have shelter from predators. do not hang feeders above dense shrubbery where cats might hide.
Try to give your garden birds a varied diet. A range of feeders is available designed to hold peanuts or seeds and most garden centres and pet stores sell fat balls. If you are going to hang fat balls always remove the netting and put them into a hanging container designed for the purpose, as the birds can tangle their feet in the plastic netting. Grated cheese (not the blue vein cheeses), apples and porridge oats can be added to the bird table. Robins are especially fond of mealworms. Don't put out any food which is salty, spicy or has started to go mouldy. Avoid putting too much food on the ground as this could encourage vermin.
Water is very important too. You can buy small water dishes to attach to the bird feeder poles but a bird bath is a much better option and makes an attractive feature for the garden.
The best website for advice on caring for your garden birds is the RSPB website at http://www.rspb.org.uk .
It's well worth encouraging birds to your garden. Not only are they a delight to watch, they also feed on many garden pests such as slugs, snails, earwigs, greenfly and caterpillars.
Friday, 23 December 2011
Evergreen Plants
Friday, 16 December 2011
Winter Flowering Viburnum
Viburnum bodnantense is one of the best frost resistant winter flowering shrubs. I have two of these, one in front of the house and the other at the bottom of the garden.
It is a deciduous shrub of upright habit which grows to about 8ft tall. The leaves are green oval shaped, the young leaves being tinged with bronze. Flowers are borne in 1 to 2 inch long clusters on the bare branches from December through to February. These open from rose red buds and gradually fade to pink, and then to white. As a bonus the flowers are also fragrant. When the sun catches them they look like little fairy lights adorning the branches.
This shrub grows well in any fertile moist garden soil and is best planted in full sun. It requires very little pruning. Just thin out overgrown shrubs by cutting the oldest stems back to the base after flowering (about April/May), and at the same time cut out any damaged or dead wood.
Wednesday, 30 November 2011
Planting in The Woodland Border
At the bottom of my garden is a raised border lined with trees and a few shrubs such as the winter flowering Viburnum 'bodnantense' and the spring flowering Choisya ternata 'sundance'. The soil tends to be rather dry here so I need to think carefully about what to plant. At the front of this miniature woodland border, trailing over the dry stone wall, I have planted aubrietia, arabis and saponaria which I wrote about in a previous post.
The border also has spring bulbs such as daffodils, bluebells and hyacinths together with spring flowering plants such as pulmonaria (lungwort) and primulas. There are also a few cyclamen hederifolium plants which were given to me by a former work colleague and are thriving under the trees.
This autumn I have planted some anemone blanda rhizomes in the woodland border. This is another low growing plant from the Mediterranean region. It grows to about 6 inches high and produces pretty starry flowers in blue, white, pink and mauve. Flowering in spring just after the snowdrops have faded these plants are suitable for naturalising under trees. I just hope they are not as attractive to the squirrels as my crocuses were. I planted about 100 of these a couple of years ago and the squirrels thought Christmas had arrived early and promptly dug them all up! I'm keeping my fingers crossed that these will survive to make a good show in spring.
Thursday, 24 November 2011
Unusually Warm Autumn Weather
The unusually warm weather we have experienced this autumn has extended the flowering season of my annual plants. The white daisy flowers of the Marguerites in pots on the patio are as abundant as they were in midsummer. The Pelargoniums are also still producing flowers. Many perennials have had a second flush of flowers, including my lovely climbing rose, and this has combined with the reds and golds of the autumn leaves to produce a rich tapestry of colour not normally seen in the garden this late in the year.
Primulas which are normally spring flowering have also come into flower and the Camellia shrub is in bud. This is very unusual and I'm not too sure if it will flower as normal in the spring. The weather is changing now and temperatures are dropping. Leaf fall is increasing and I am expecting the first frosts soon.
I am definitely not complaining though when I think of the extreme winter weather we have suffered for the last two years. Hopefully this year the weather will follow a more normal winter pattern. I'm looking forward to the first frost as this is when I will sample my curly kale - it always tastes better once it's been exposed to frost. The kale plants and the leeks are growing really well and will hopefully provide me with fresh grown vegetables throughout the winter months.
Primulas which are normally spring flowering have also come into flower and the Camellia shrub is in bud. This is very unusual and I'm not too sure if it will flower as normal in the spring. The weather is changing now and temperatures are dropping. Leaf fall is increasing and I am expecting the first frosts soon.
I am definitely not complaining though when I think of the extreme winter weather we have suffered for the last two years. Hopefully this year the weather will follow a more normal winter pattern. I'm looking forward to the first frost as this is when I will sample my curly kale - it always tastes better once it's been exposed to frost. The kale plants and the leeks are growing really well and will hopefully provide me with fresh grown vegetables throughout the winter months.
Wednesday, 9 November 2011
Sweet Chestnuts - Food for Free
This is the season for sweet chestnuts - collect them now for an excellent wholesome free food which is high in fibre and full of vitamin C. The ripened nuts fall from the tree during October and November so get out in the woods and start collecting. Not to be confused with the inedible horse chestnut, the sweet chestnut husk has longer spines and contains two or three nuts. Stamp on the spiny green husks to split them and reveal the shiny brown nuts within.
You can eat them raw but be sure to remove the inner brown membrane as this can taste bitter. The shells and inner skins can be hard to remove but roasting them makes this job a lot easier and brings out the full flavour of the nuts.
When roasting chestnuts always slit the shells otherwise they will explode. The traditional way was to roast them in the hot ash of an open fire or close to the red coals, slitting the shells of all but one of them. When this one explodes you know the rest are ready. I wouldn't recommend this for an indoor fire as the explosion can be quite dramatic scattering shell shrapnel across the room. Perhaps this method is best left to outdoor fires.
If you don't have access to an open fire the chestnuts can be cooked in a conventional oven. First cut a slit in the shell on the flat side of each nut (very important to prevent exploding nuts!) Preheat your oven to 350 degrees C or Gas Mark 4 and place the nuts in a single layer in a baking dish. Bake for approximately 30 minutes. If you just want to heat them up to make them easier to peel rather than fully cook them, then just bake for about 15 minutes. Remove the shells and inner skins while still warm. If you leave them to cool they will be harder to peel.
Sweet chestnuts can be used in stuffing and to make puree. The nuts do not keep for long so if you want to store them for future use one method is to dry them in a very low oven until hard. Once dried store them in a dry jar in a cool dark cupboard. The dried chestnuts should keep for at least a year. To reconstitute the dried nuts put them into boiling water and cover. Leave them for an hour or so and then use them in your recipe.
You can eat them raw but be sure to remove the inner brown membrane as this can taste bitter. The shells and inner skins can be hard to remove but roasting them makes this job a lot easier and brings out the full flavour of the nuts.
When roasting chestnuts always slit the shells otherwise they will explode. The traditional way was to roast them in the hot ash of an open fire or close to the red coals, slitting the shells of all but one of them. When this one explodes you know the rest are ready. I wouldn't recommend this for an indoor fire as the explosion can be quite dramatic scattering shell shrapnel across the room. Perhaps this method is best left to outdoor fires.
If you don't have access to an open fire the chestnuts can be cooked in a conventional oven. First cut a slit in the shell on the flat side of each nut (very important to prevent exploding nuts!) Preheat your oven to 350 degrees C or Gas Mark 4 and place the nuts in a single layer in a baking dish. Bake for approximately 30 minutes. If you just want to heat them up to make them easier to peel rather than fully cook them, then just bake for about 15 minutes. Remove the shells and inner skins while still warm. If you leave them to cool they will be harder to peel.
Sweet chestnuts can be used in stuffing and to make puree. The nuts do not keep for long so if you want to store them for future use one method is to dry them in a very low oven until hard. Once dried store them in a dry jar in a cool dark cupboard. The dried chestnuts should keep for at least a year. To reconstitute the dried nuts put them into boiling water and cover. Leave them for an hour or so and then use them in your recipe.
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